Would a faceplate filter improve my speed?

[#1]

Quote from: DaddyG

Hmmm £16.49! That might be doable next pay day! How would that set up work then? The TL-WR702N connected to the master socket then a LAN cat5 running from it to my router? Would that work?

No. This is not a modem, it it just a router. Therefore, one would probably use it as a WAP (mentioned above).

[#2]

Quote from: DaddyG

IP Profile for your line is - 12.4 Mbps Current line speed: 8.9 Mb

So at the moment Plusnet have failed to catch-up with your improved IP Profile and are throttling your speed unnecessarily.

[#3]

Quote from: DaddyG

How would that set up work then? The TL-WR702N connected to the master socket then a LAN cat5 running from it to my router?

No, the other way round, it's not a modem.  
Existing modem/router at master socket. RJ45 to suitable point with Nano unit on the end.
They can be configured in lots of different ways (it's quite easy to do) so you'd set it up as a WAP.
If you also needed wired connections there you'd need to add a cheap switch (under £10) or use a different type of WAP with switch functions built in.
Personally I'd configure it with a different SSID to the router so you'd have 2 wireless networks (and better coverage).
I actually mostly use my Nano's as pseudo-LAN bridges, e.g. for set-top boxes that want a wired ethernet connection. You can configure them to connect to your existing wireless LAN and use the LAN port to connect to a wired-only device so that it thinks it's directly cabled. Also handy for working on PC's that need an internet connection but slinging a cable to them isn't convenient - just plug in a pre-configured Nano to the LAN port and pick up power from a spare USB port and away you go.
I find them so useful I actually have 3 of the things! 

[#4]

ReedRichards, my IP has been at that speed since I moved over to Plusnet at the start of January. I complained initially about the speed and was told to do the master socket test, which was giving me speeds of around 16Mbps. The problem is the router is over 15m away from the master socket on an extension, and I thought it might be noise on that line that was causing the slowdown.
HPSauce, we don't need any LAN connection from the WAP, there will only be a laptop, a couple of phones and a tablet connecting to it wirelessly.  So that sounds like it could be the answer. Will it definitely improve my speeds though?!
Edit: Actually, looking at my TP-Link TD-W8960N manual I really should be able to set that up as a WAP running off the Plusnet TG582n shouldn't I???
Edit 2: Just ordered 20m of cat5, going to give it a shot! 

[#5]

I wouldn't think 15m on a decent extension would be a problem. My link is only about 10m and I cannot find any difference between the usual setup (from a faceplate filter) and the test socket/rat-tail filter connection (though my line attn is 60 to 62dB, depending on the "bins" used I think). My temporary) extension is currently 45% CW1308 and 55% CAT5e, with an IDC coupler joint (until I get permission to lift a floorboard etc). 

[#6]

Quote from: DaddyG

looking at my TP-Link TD-W8960N manual I really should be able to set that up as a WAP running off the Plusnet TG582n shouldn't I???

I personally don't know that device, but most wireless routers can be reconfigured to operate as a WAP.
Certainly worth a try, and obviously you can test it easily enough with any old short LAN cable to hand.

[#7]

If you use one of the LAN ports, then any router or modem/router will work, though you need to make sure your DHCP is provided by one device, but it may be problematic if you use the WAN port. Edit: using a 4 port modem/router with unwanted services (basically DHCP) off is equivalent to a 4 port switch and wireless AP coupled together
Ooops! just realised it's a TD not WL - so an ADSL modem/router not a (cable) router - but the above still applies  

[#8]

What a load of complicated unnecessary hassle. For a start, running a LAN connection means you don't have the wireless where you wanted it without providing some further AP at stated. And all that will be a waste of time if the wiring left connected to the Line/Master socket isn't up to spec.    As PeeGee has stated a 15m extension is not a problem. You could have upto 100m with no problem if ALL the wiring is upto scratch.
So in answer to your question in reply #18

Quote

Will it definitely improve my speeds though?!

the answer is no.
It's not possible to make a judgement on the effects of the changes you've already made without seeing the latest ADSL stats.

[#9]

OK, here's the latest stats from the router:
Mode: ADSL_G.dmt.bis
Traffic Type: ATM
Status: Up
Link Power State: L0

Downstream Upstream
Line Coding(Trellis): On On
SNR Margin (0.1 dB): 121 62
Attenuation (0.1 dB): 215 98
Output Power (0.1 dBm): 0 119
Attainable Rate (Kbps): 10316 1164

Path 0 Path 1
Downstream Upstream Downstream Upstream
Rate (Kbps): 8867 1163 0 0

MSGc (# of bytes in overhead channel message): 51 12 0 0
B (# of bytes in Mux Data Frame): 157 35 0 0
M (# of Mux Data Frames in FEC Data Frame): 1 1 0 0
T (Mux Data Frames over sync bytes): 2 4 0 0
R (# of check bytes in FEC Data Frame): 0 0 0 0
S (ratio of FEC over PMD Data Frame length): 0.5683 0.9829 0.0 0.0
L (# of bits in PMD Data Frame): 2224 293 0 0
D (interleaver depth): 1 1 0 0
Delay (msec): 0.14 0.24 0.0 0.0
INP (DMT symbol): 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

Super Frames: 1328285 267727 0 0
Super Frame Errors: 0 0 0 0
RS Words: 0 0 0 0
RS Correctable Errors: 0 0 0 0
RS Uncorrectable Errors: 0 0 0 0

HEC Errors: 4294967128 0 0 0
OCD Errors: 0 0 0 0
LCD Errors: 0 0 0 0
Total Cells: 449989225 1787287 0 0
Data Cells: 16161325 6592 0 0
Bit Errors: 0 0 0 0

Total ES: 12 4294967290
Total SES: 9 0
Total UAS: 169 4294967213

And the latest BT Speedtest:
Download speedachieved during the test was - 7.96 Mbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 2 Mbps-7.15 Mbps.
IP Profile for your line is - 7.82 Mbps
Upload speed achieved during the test was - 0.99Mbps
Additional Information:
Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 0.83 Mbps
Which has now dropped even lower 😕

Plusnet is giving the same current line speeds as yesterday:
Estimated line speed:
14Mb (This may vary between 12.5Mb and 16Mb) - Checked on 2013-02-01 14:13:16
Current line speed:
8.9 Mb

[#10]

Hi there,
I would have waited until you'd said what wiring you'd got before giving advise on how best to deal with it.
Disconnecting and reconnecting things that may involve/result in several resyncs of the modem/router is never a good idea, as too many in a short space of time can upset the Exchange DLM (Dynamic Line Management) and it will push up your Target SNRM and/or on 21CN band your connection, resulting in lower speed.
So here is a tip for the future -
If you want to alter wiring, swap filters, sockets etc., change the configuration of the modem/router or do a factory reset, or if you are experimenting, or even at any time you want to reboot/resync,  I suggest you use this method -
Do a Disconnect of your PPP Internet session with the ISP - you need to login to the modem/router interface and look for the Disconnect button to click on, now wait a few minutes, then power down. Wait a moment and then unplug from the line.
Then wait at least 10 minutes (with the line disconnected) - during this time you can alter wiring, connect to the test socket, swap any filters etc. alter the modem/router configuration, you can reboot as may times as you like offline to make sure your changes have stuck,  etc. - it doesn't matter if you take longer than 10 minutes). Then power up again & connect to the line.
You may need to login to the modem/router and click on Connect to re-establish the PPP Internet session.
If you check the stats immediately (The Noise Margin [SNRM] shown is usually the current Target Noise Margin).
I usually recommend you do this no more than 5 times in an hour, and then leave it alone for the rest of the day.  The reason for this procedure is to help prevent the Exchange DLM from thinking you have a dropping connection with the possible consequences of a raised Target SNRM and/or on 21CN, a banded connection..
You can use the Disconnect/Connect (without a power down) to Gateway hop.
Looking at those current stats and the previous stats and speedtest results you have had some losses of sync which may have caused DLM to push the Target Noise margin up to 12dB with consequential lower sync speed. Don't worry, if this has happened, as a line reset can always be requested as soon as things are stable.
Before we try and progress a bit further, we need to clarify how your wiring etc is arranged as per reply #10. First, is the Master Socket an NTE5a as per the LH picture in that link. It should have a removable lower front half with a Test Socket behind.
Which socket are you currently plugged into?
With your extension sockets, is it one set of wires connected at the Master socket which then go from one extension to another, or are they all connected at the Master socket, or a mixture - please describe as accurately as possible.
The third extension that you have unwired, can you stated where you disconnected it?
Also please confirm whether your Microfilters look like this
If you could do that first, and then I'll ask to do some other checks.

[#11]

One other check you could do before you post back is look at the BT incoming cable (is it overhead or underground) and see if it is a round black cable about 5.3mm in diameter, or does it look a bit like flat twin flex grey or black in colour?

[#12]

The Master socket is an NTE5a. Here's a picture of how it's wired (with orange instead of blue wires in the 2 and  5 terminals)

The second set of leads presumably go to supply the other extension sockets, it must split somewhere as there is only one set of leads going into extension 1, which is in the room directly below the master & extension 2, which is around 15m away and the the one the router is plugged into. Extension 3 was daisy chained off extension 2, and has now been disconnected.
This is what extension 1 looked like. I have now disconnected the blue wires in the 3 and 4 terminals on both extensions.

Yes, all my microfilters look like the one you posted, and there is one attached to all three sockets.
The BT incoming cable is overhead and is round and black.
Thanks a lot for the PPP advice, I'll do that every time I disconnect from now on.

[#13]

One of those pairs will go to extension 1,  the other to extension 2.  The sheath of one of the two wires is visible in the photo.  With the faceplate removed (as in the photograph) you should find that all your extensions are dead.

[#14]

Ah right. Is this an ok way for the extensions to run? Extension 1 is very rarely used and I wouldn't really have a problem permanently disconnecting it if it would improve speed?

[#15]

No, extension 1 should not be a problem.
As RR has mentioned, all extension sockets should be dead when the front plate is removed. That's a check always worth doing at some point in the future, but not now, no rush if you are finding the wiring consistent at all the extension sockets. So as long as it's only terminals 2 & 5 that are connected at all extensions (as well as the master) and it the same standard of cable to all, no different coloured wires, using the Orange pair isn't a real issue as at least they are a twisted pair which is the most important thing.
Just to be clear, so we've got this right, there is the Master plus 3 extension sockets as you said "3 other" in reply #9. If that's the case, then as RR mentioned the other pair go to the other extension.The BT incoming cable is connected to the back of that rear plate that has the test socket.
So the wiring would now appear to be in order, and presumably you are reconnected. Can you advise which socket you are currently plugged into and post the latest stats from the modem/router and we can go from there.