Replacing Taps

[#1]

The time is not far off when I need to replace a couple of taps in the house.

No problem with the cold water one as you just turn the mains one off usually under the kitchen sink, the problem is the hot water one, the gate valve is stuck solid which leaves me with the option of draining the hot water off or getting one of those freezer sprays which are fairly expensive for a one off use on a single pipe.

HairyMcBiker mentioned in another post about the use of a bung which I have heard about before but could it be used to stop the hot water system ?

I suspect the pipe will either be 15mm or 22mm, plenty of bungs advertised on ebay but are there specific ones for doing this sort of job ? I assume a tapered bung would be the best type to use.

[#2]

As a matter of interest , why havent you replaced the gate valve on the tank   ok you have to empty tank once but then it will not become a problem .

also what is now common practice when the water is off, on all tap copper pipes fit a Shut off valve , so then every tap has a individual shut off

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Valves/sd2696/Isolating+Valve+CP/p36879

[#3]

Yes you can use a tapered bung but only to block one of the outflow pipes from the tank - in your case the pipe that feeds down to the hot water cylinder. You still have to drain the cylinder down before unscrewing the old tap fitting so not sure it'd help much; these bungs are more commonly used on the cold water side to save you having to drain the main tank down. Don't try using a bung to stop up the end of the pipe you've just unscrewed from the tap unless you want to get wet - but you knew that anyway!

Like rongtw said, you now have a great opportunity to fit individual isolation valves to each tap to make life easier in the future.

[#4]

Water is fed to hot water tanks from cold water tanks. It enters hot water tanks at the bottom and leaves from the top. If you turn off the mains and drain the cold water tank then the hot water tank will remain full but no hot water will flow from it.

[#5]

@rongtw,

What you say is good advice but the isolation valve for the hot water supply is behind the tank and the pipe is very close to the wall, not helped by several other pipes running close by, in short it's difficult to get at and I envisage it would take some time to cut through the pipe without damage to other pipes, it could be done but the time and effort involved makes me avoid doing it,

What ever I do the taps will be fitted with flexible tap connectors which incorprate a isolating valve.

The only other point I am not sure about is the use of boss white which can be applied before tightening the joint, I have used it in the past but not sure if it's really necessary.

[#6]

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@gleneagles wrote:

..., the problem is the hot water one, the gate valve is stuck solid ...

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IME it's good practice not to leave a gate valve in the fully open position.  What I mean by that is when you first open it, open it fully then close it by half a turn, that way any corrosion etc. can be dislodged/broken by turning the valve to the fully open position before trying to close it.

That has kept my gate valves moveable over the years, but it's also a good idea to move them every now and then - a year? - couple of years? - whenever you remember!

You might be lucky and be able to shift yours by trying to open it further.

Edit: Fixed quote cockup

[#7]

Gleneagles , Boss white is personal preference, but  i never use it for taps .

As a matter of interest as the gate valve on the tank is inaccessible is it not possible to fit another elsewhere in the pipework

i have had to do this in the past

[#8]

If when you do change the taps and fit the flexi type units make sure that the hot water one IS made for hot water and also if your going to fit them to a KITCHEN sink then they BOTH have to be able to supply DRINKING WATER to which A LOT of the flexi pipes do not.

Trust me I have fitted enough of them in the past

[#9]

Hopefully I will not need to fit new kitchen taps but can you enlarge a bit on what you say regarding some of those flexible fittings not being suitable for taps that supply drinking water.

[#10]

Yes. If you  pop into your local plumbing merchant they should give you the full details. Though some flexi pipes will have a soft wall insert which is not any good for use on drinking water supplies.

Even from the likes of B & Q or thier subsiduary Screwfix they list whether safe for drinking water systems and as i said you also want to make sure on the hot water supply as it can cause some problem 

[#11]

you lot are all tapped 

[#12]

Washer mouth out.

[#13]

The flow of nonsensical comments will not stop dripping, until they are overflowing the cistern ( mis spelling of "system" ) ! ! ! ..

[#14]

I can't see how you are basin your argument.

[#15]

Probably suffering from brain drain, then