Oil change help

[#1]

I changed the oil on my ER-6F today for the first time (couldn't undo bolt before), so I changed the oil and the filter at the same time.  Now, the oil measuring window shows the oil to be between the two lines, as it should be.  When I start the engine though, the oil goes up, indeed, it goes to the high line, maybe just above it.  When I stop the engine, the oil goes up again and covers the entire window (the bike is on a centre stand with the rear wheel raised) before falling back down to between the two lines.

I'm a novice at this kind of thing, I read the haynes manual and follow what it says, but it doesn't say anything about that, it says fill the engine with oil, start for 3m, turn off, top up the oil, repeat.  Is it normal for the oil to go above the high line when the engine is switched on?  I don't really want to overfill my oil but if I remove oil now, the oil will be below the low line which is also something I don't want.  Anyone with any mechanical experience that can fill me in?

[#2]

Just concentrate on this bit "fill the engine with oil, start for 3m, turn off, top up the oil, repeat." ignore the other readings, as long as its right after you turn it off you will be fine. Initially it will go down as it fills up the filter, but should settle after starting it a couple of times.

Just did my blade last week, thought I had over filled it at forst, but it was fine after I started it and the filter was filled.

[#3]

Like 99% of vehicles, the level should ideally be checked with the engine stopped and the bike stood level. Oil moves too much with the engine running to check the level reliably in that state. After stopping the engine, allow several minutes for the oil to drain down into the crankcase/sump.

[#4]

Awesome, so it's the measurement when it's stopped that matters, I can stop worrying so much now, I'd be slightly annoyed if oil started to pour out because of an error I'd made

[#5]

Yup, it's the level after running and about ten minutes of rest that counts. A lot of people make the mistake of not allowing the level to settle or checking it on a slope. I know this isn't a bike, but this is what happens of you overfill a diesel engine with lubricating oil!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw2r_lIRgpY

[#6]

---

@nozzer wrote:

I know this isn't a bike, but this is what happens of you overfill a diesel engine with lubricating oil!

Or the turbo oil seals have failed, or the piston rings are shot, or a fuel supply leak, etc....

[#7]

I don't think any of those would cause engine oil to be recirculated and burnt in the engine like this shows!

[#8]

I`m gettng "my man" to come and do my oil change in a weeks time...

I have booked him for 0930 start, and he will arrive on time...

I supply the oil, and filters, he gets his hands dirty... and I make the tea.. 

No problem....... he has been doing my oil changes ( and other work )  for the past 12 years.. !!!....

[#9]

I'm in the "lets save money" camp, fully synthetic oil and a filter is expensive enough, add in the cost for a man to come and it'll be in the "how much?" range.  Next up is stripping my brake calipers, putting grease where you need grease, copper grease where you need copper grease and no grease where you really don't want grease.  The difficulty is supposed to be reasonably high but as long as I put everything back together properly and replace bits that need replacing and stuff, I should survive till 2017

[#10]

I used to be like that... but now... I`m too old to be crawling around under a car... so I have to pay for it...

Must admit... to some degree, I miss doing my own work on the car... but again.. it does give one a feeling of.. "hmm.... nice to have someone else do it for me "! ! ! !

[#11]

---

@nozzer wrote:

I don't think any of those would cause engine oil to be recirculated and burnt in the engine like this shows!

---

They would, and do, and have been youtubed...

[#12]

---

@David_W wrote:

I'm in the "lets save money" camp, fully synthetic oil and a filter is expensive enough, add in the cost for a man to come and it'll be in the "how much?" range.  Next up is stripping my brake calipers, putting grease where you need grease, copper grease where you need copper grease and no grease where you really don't want grease.  The difficulty is supposed to be reasonably high but as long as I put everything back together properly and replace bits that need replacing and stuff, I should survive till 2017

---

i agree with the lets save money idea, but i always had the wheels and brakes changed at the shop where they have the right tools, don't get me wrong i could do them but its a lot easier to be safe and pay quick fit a fiver more than the parts cost in Halfords than to risk having something unbalanced.... (or any other parts shop)

[#13]

@nanotm..... parts in Halfords are rip off prices... e.g.  H3 headlight bulb  £9.50  three years ago... same thing on ebay £2.50 for two.. inc p&p.... 

Also they are cheaper at motor factors, rather than accessory shops... and talking of brake parts... who do Quick Fit get them from ?   local Motor Factors... ( trade price ) then they add on their mark up  - about 25%  for the price to you.. so the "extra fiver"  on Halfords price, is not exactly saving money...  you pay the labour and the parts ( at retail)  at Quick Fit...

By having a "tame mechanic" come to my house... he gets the parts ( or I do ), from the local motor factors, and he charges me the same price he paid for them.. ( trade prices) .. .  and he charges me for  his labour,...  therefore it is cheaper to have a mobile mechanic to come and do the work, outside my house, at my specified time.

I know he charges me the trade price, because I always ring for the prices before I book the mechanic,.... despite having him come for years... I just like to keep tabs on current parts prices.#

  If some extra parts are required, he always phones up in my presence to find out the price and availability, and I can hear his phone call... 

[#14]

yes well that's why I said "or any other parts shop"

[#15]

Well, my master plan for rebuilding my calipers is off.  The seals per caliper are £20 a set, a pro will install new seals and clean it etc. for £40, so basically it's £20 for the work and £20 for the seals, they can also let me know if the pistons need replacing and if they do, replace them for me, all I'll have to do is remove the calipers, package and post them off, then fit them on their return and bleed the system, though really I should replace the brake fluid.  I think I'd have a better frame of mind if I knew an expert had worked on my bikes most important parts.