Changing a Tap Washer

[#1]

Hot water tap is dripping so I assume the washer needs changing.

Gate valve for the hot water supply is seized so one option would be to turn the mains water supply off and drain the hot water but with a risk of air blocks in the system when refilled.

Another option I am considering is one of these pipe freezing kits, Wicks do one at £ 12.99

Most you tube videos along with reviews seem to suggest they work, has anyone on the forum used one ?

Clearly I would wait until the water in the pipe to the tap was cold.

[#2]

i have never tried them , but have been told they work well

But would suggest that while water is off fit a Isolator valve , so next time its easier

http://www.diy.com/departments/compression-ball-valve-dia15mm/179172_BQ.prd?icamp=recs&rrec=true

[#3]

---

@gleneagles wrote:

.

Gate valve for the hot water supply is seized ...

---

I find it's good practice with gate valves (and stopcocks) to initially fully open them, then from that position close them 1/2 turn.  That way, in the event that you do not move them regularly to prevent them from seizing, you are quite likely to be able to get a small amount of movement in the 'opening' direction (ant-clockwise).  Once you are able to move it very slightly you can then if necessary reverse the tiny movement back and forth in each direction which will usually free any crud which is preventing free movement.

It might be worth trying to move yours in the anti-clockwise direction slightly, you may be lucky that it wasn't left in the fully open position.

[#4]

---

@gleneagles wrote:

Hot water tap is dripping so I assume the washer needs changing.

Gate valve for the hot water supply is seized so one option would be to turn the mains water supply off and drain the hot water but with a risk of air blocks in the system when refilled.

Another option I am considering is one of these pipe freezing kits, Wicks do one at £ 12.99

Most you tube videos along with reviews seem to suggest they work, has anyone on the forum used one ?

Clearly I would wait until the water in the pipe to the tap was cold.

---

Never used one, but I watched a plumber replace the stopcock on the main cold-water feed using one!

Much higher water pressures involved!

I'm guessing they use a CO2 cartridge to work?

[#5]

---

@VileReynard wrote:

---

I'm guessing they use a CO2 cartridge to work?

---

Nope, they use refrigerant as used in a fridge, freezer, air-con in a car and other cooling systems, CO2 would just clump up and block the freezing process as they use an insulated jacket (like a hot tank jacket, only smaller) that surrounds the pipe, and then the refrigerant is piped through the jacket to freeze the water in the pipe...

[#6]

Bung the tank and change the valve http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p31768?table=no

[#7]

@rongtw

It had crossed my mind to fit one of those flexible pipes which incorporate a isolater valve but this is the first time in 25 years I have needed to change this washer and the pipe is not in a easy spot to reach when it comes to cutting it, sure there are small pipe cutters that could do the job but purchase of same plus flexible pipe is all adding to the cost for a job I hope will never need doing again, well at least not by me.

@RobPN

The valve is solid no matter what direction I try to move it, your suggestion of not fully opening it is good but I guess it has never been moved since the house was built over 25 years ago, there is a great temptation to get a pair of molegrips on it but I am resisting that temptation as knowing my luck the shaft might snap.

Thanks for all the advice so far, I will stick with the simplest option and try the freezing method, making sure everything is to hand before starting the job next week.

[#8]

---

@30FTTC06 wrote:

Bung the tank and change the valve http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p31768?table=no

---

Can't see how that would work for hot water supply ?

Central heating or cold water system yes but hot water supply, unless of course someone else knows different.

[#9]

You can't see how cold water from the header tank feeds the copper tank which feeds the hot water. or do you have a mains pressure system ? in which case.. call a MAN who can.

Don't worry about air, just make sure to run the tapes taps for a bit afterwards if you have a low pressure system.

[#10]

@gleneagles

This worked for me a couple of years ago and the valve was apparently stuck solid. The trick is not to put too much force on it but to get a tiny amount of initial movement in the spindle. Once you get that you're home and dry ( haha)!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0inVlv2X-_o

[#11]

When I changed the sink in the bathroom, I just plugged the 2 ends of the system with an ordinary cork. One in the hot water feed tank in the attic, and the other in the overflow pipe that feeds back to the central heating feed.
Then opened the taps in the bath and sink and drained a small amount of water from them.

Cost 0p!

[#12]

That might work on my hot tap pipe as it's fed from a low pressure supply but my cold tap is mains pressure fed and would easily dislodge a cork plug.

Forgive the correction from an ex-plumber's mate @HairyMcbiker but a sink lives in the kitchen, the bathroom has a wash basin.

[#13]

@Strat OK but to me they are all sinks. ;-)
I was taking about hot side, the cold side only needs the water turned off at the mains.

[#14]

@30FTTC06

Yes you are correct that would work but there have been tales of these bungs or corks coming loose, if I had a second person available I would go down that route but the gap between my roof and the top of the tank is less than a foot so bottom of the inside of the tank is hard to reach, not like swmbo could be up there keeping that bung or cork in place.

This tank must have been fitted prior to the tiles going on.

Oddly enough when I was much younger I would have tried that method but at my age I seem to have less confidence in doing minor jobs like this, odd because I have changed washers on taps in other houses where I lived without problems.

[#15]

When I had my gas supply switched over from a Victorian (cast iron) feed to a modern plastic one, the Gas Board bloke just used a hand-rolled lump of putty to block the mains feed before he connected the meter to the new feed.