Enable fast path

[#1]

@Anonymous, as far as I'm aware it's from when BT place the order. 

[#2]

@Gandalf 

I agree for that to go ahead then. I have a feeling the weekends might not count, but the sooner started the sooner it's finished.

I'll just have to find a suitable mobile data plan in the meantime to keep me online for the important things.

Thanks again for continuing to move it ahead. If they can do a lift and shift at the same time, that would be best.

I've noted people had faults that were solved by lift and shift or an engineer reseating a line card. Maybe that would be a solve for me, but at least it would help point them to the right place if it's not.

[#3]

If you think there's issue with your mains voltage, then maybe ask your landlord to ask you local networks (not your electricity supplier) to check your house voltage. Let's say yours should be 220-240vac, some panels (where the 'owner' sells it back to them) have been known to put out 250-260vac. A lot of it boils down to a little microswitch being left in the default position, rather than 'synced' to the incoming voltage.

Those that maintain the network now all too well what these panels do - and yes sounds like your neighbour has them.

[#4]

Well not so much with the supply, when I say minor..

A couple of dangle lights have a small piece of exposed live wires near the fixtures. I'm sure all the live wire should be insulated and not exposed at all there.

The kitchen water heater is supposed to have a circuit all to itself, but it appears a plug socket in this room is also on that circuit. It's one of those electrical heaters with a tank on it, so not a serious concern but I'd want to get it checked anyway as I'm sure it should be on the plug socket circuit.

I'm thinking more along the lines though that maybe if a couple of things are wrong there, I can at least eliminate those problems if local interference starts to get checked as a source of the problem.

[#5]

I've provided our suppliers with confirmation to place the TPM order.

As we have this option we don't need to request an engineer to carry out a lift and shift as the TPM is basically the same work. It's just that we're able to order it as opposed to requesting an engineer to do this during a booked appointment.

Keep us posted if you can letting us know how things go over the next few days. I've placed your fault ticket on hold until 01/04/2019 and a faults adviser should be picking this up within around 48 hours of that date to follow up.

[#6]

Erm, no dangly bits should be visible - tends to happen with heavy lampshades...

(or perhaps a drunken neighbour - Miley Cyrus's 'wrecking ball' should not be performed on a standard house light!!)

Water heater - on an RCD protected circuit?, probably with a fused spur, not a plug. Also, it (spur or plug) shouldn't be near a source of water.

Some 'low energy' bulbs emit 'noise' too.

[#7]

Well heater is in the kitchen, the plug socket on the same circuit (from my perspective anyway) is in the living room but it's all open plan studio style so the plug socket is not all the way at the other end of the house or something.

Still I think the intention was not to have the plug socket on there since everything has it's own 'trip switch' and sockets already have their own. I spotted this since I had something plugged in there and decided to do a quick test of each circuit. When the water heater circuit 'tripped' the plug socket turned off.

Thanks for confirming about the dangle lights, they're not heavy just defacto standard stuff but looking slightly old. I'll get in touch with the landlord tomorrow and they'll get it looked at I'm sure since they're pretty much on the ball.

I switched to halogen bulbs. No change there, but I know they tend to emit less noise so keeping them in.

[#8]

But can any water from the heater splash the plug?

That's why bathrooms have pull cords - wetten fingurs un spitz un sparken

I'd of the thought putting a water heater on a plug, where it could be at the same level (rather than up near the ceiling), could potentially be asking for trouble...

The house ring mains (house sockets) have a rating of 32amps, so this will cope. I'm a bit out of touch with stuff now, but still think a high level fused spur is the way to go on this - I'd have done it that way.

Bear in mind water+volts=death, does the plug or flex get 'warm to hot' during use...? but then again a lot of new rapid boil kettles consume around 3kw anyway.

[#9]

I think not. A power cable runs from the heater to a 'flat plate' on the wall which is under the kitchen counter and away a bit so I don't think it will get water on it. The things I notice really is the heater isn't very effecient (needs turning up high) and the cable looks a bit old and worn.

When I say about the plug socket, I mean it's on the same circuit but has nothing to do with how the heater gets connected. It's just a wall socket I can use if need be in the living room, whilst the heater is in the kitchen.

I don't want to confuse things with power issues but I have had some issues:

I had an extension lead 'arc' when I plugged something in (or removed it, can't remember which). I think the main reason was it powered a halogen heater and freezer already, so I might have overloaded it. Fuse blew, halogen heater packed in.

I had a smart phone that just stopped charging one day. Took it to the repair shop, they fixed it once the problem came back so they said it was the logic board causing it. Based on what they told me I had some slightly suspicions about the socket I charged it from, but I'd also charged it at other places on the go so I can't be sure.

Recently a kettle just died on me, fuse was not the problem. I have a new kettle now but it often refuses to switch on and the switch just pops back up into position. Have to press it many times to get it to boil. But sometimes it does work and I don't need to press it more than once. There's a chance that these kettles aren't very good though, same brand (hyundai) slightly different model.

I'll get the landlord to sort the dangle lights and apparent issue with the water heater before thinking about the other issues. Just to let them deal with the obvious first, get that out the way and then come back to it.

[#10]

I think not

It should be okay then

The things I notice really is the heater isn't very effecient (needs turning up high) and the cable looks a bit old and worn.

You could be the same as me, a hard water area. Limescale forming in the heater reduces it's ability to heat the water 'normally'. You then have to crank it up, thus reducing the flow of water to get the same temp' from it. It looking old could be due to it's location - cooking etc can bond to the outer insulation. If it looks brittle, then that's a whole new 'ball game'. Cables do age with time and usage. There will come a point when it needs replacing.

When I say about the plug socket, I mean it's on the same circuit but has nothing to do with how the heater gets connected. It's just a wall socket I can use if need be in the living room, whilst the heater is in the kitchen.

? confused here.

The heater has a standard 3 pin plug...?

And you unplug it when it's not in use, to use the socket for other uses?

I don't want to confuse things with power issues but I have had some issues

I'm currently free to rattle on

I had an extension lead 'arc' when I plugged something in (or removed it, can't remember which)

A little arcing when the device being plugged in (but you left it turned on) is to be expected.

But it shouldn't really be arcing when not under load. This could indicate a worn extension lead. It's common for modern day extension leads to be made with as little cost as possible. I'm not leading you in this direction, as it's not a normal DIYer 'thing', but I often open (unplugged) extensions and tweak the prongs back, so a good firm fit is made with the socket and the pins on the plug. Though some now come sealed, so I bin the socket but retain the flex for future 'play times' or doing what the wombles do - making good use of the things that we I find;)

I think the main reason was it powered a halogen heater and freezer already, so I might have overloaded it. Fuse blew, halogen heater packed in.

Didn't want to say owt, but they are (IMO) one of the most costly things to run (as in they pull a lot of power), plus the heat they put out can be an issue if one gets knocked over. Combine that with a freezer too, it's probably the lights that did it.

I had a smart phone that just stopped charging one day. Took it to the repair shop, they fixed it once the problem came back so they said it was the logic board causing it. I had some slightly suspicions about the socket I charged it from, but I'd also charged it at other places on the go so I can't be sure

Erm, back to your neighbour!! Spikes and 'dirty' voltage possibly did the phone. It could be the socket too. Again the build quality on some sockets is cra rubbish when compared to how they used to make them.

Recently a kettle just died on me, fuse was not the problem. I have a new kettle now but it often refuses to switch on and the switch just pops back up into position. Have to press it many times to get it to boil. But sometimes it does work and I don't need to press it more than once. There's a chance that these kettles aren't very good though, same brand slightly different model.

Again, down to build quality imo. Have you tried the kettle in another socket, ideally one that isn't used often.... Same issue then possibly the kettle .... works fine elsewhere then I'd say the socket (or home electrics) want looking at. No cost to you as your landlord should pay for this.

I used to 'do' fault finding/repairs but on a much much larger scale. 11,000 volts down to 0.01 volts.

I'll get the landlord to sort the dangle lights and apparent issue with the water heater before thinking about power distribution issues. Just to let them deal with the obvious first.

I would too. The outer flex is supposed to support the weight of the fitment. Sounds like the inner part is supporting the weight. Only a matter of time before you end up wearing a lampshade!! Also, if he supplied the fixtures and fittings, including the heater, technically he should have a PAT (portable appliance test) done after x years. As the heater has a plug, this should (imo) be tested too, even though it's not portable - I'd test it if I was doing it;)

[#11]

To solve the confusion I could potentially post a picture of how the water heater plugs in. Probably on imgr or something like that.

No plug on the water heater at all, just a wire that feeds behind a plastic plate on the wall but I do have a switch that can turn it on and off. The water heater is basically hard wired I couldn't remove it if I wanted to. It's just very strange to me that turning off the water heater from the mains will turn off a plug socket in the living room.

Halogen heater is a different story, maybe it's just me that did that.. extension socket is a new one but only has a 10amp fuse. No need for a new halogen heater right now since it's warming up so I'm not worried and I'll see if the shop takes it back.

Electricity is included hence why I don't mind running halogen bulbs and halogen heaters, may even get a nice solid hob kettle but I will test as you suggested before doing that.

Rambling on is fine by me, if I do have any power issues it's best I solve them as nothing says I can't have more than one issue going on that contributes to my issue. Looks like I could be left thinking about this soon when the TPM module is complete if it doesn't solve the problem, so not a bad idea to start now.

So far then kettles probably going back, and I will grab a new extension lead and let the landlord take care of the fittings. No harm in taking care of these things.

About power output issues and potential 'dirty voltage'.. would a UPS solve that issue? I've seen some products around that claim to filter REIN from plug sockets too. I'd rather the source of any problems are dealt with but if it's something not in their control I'd consider giving these things a go. Thoughts?

[#12]

No need for a piccy, but up to you

Guess it looks like a small shower, with an on/off switch, with a fixed (yet pivot-able) 'head'.

No plug on the water heater at all, just a wire that feeds behind a plastic plate on the wall but I do have a switch that can turn it on and off.

And the switch probably (hopefully) has a little rectangle to the side of it - the fuse goes in there.

It's just very strange to me that turning off the water heater from the mains will turn off a plug socket in the living room.

That is NOT right. That switch should be independent to any sockets!!

Halogen heater is a different story, maybe it's just me that did that.. extension socket is a new one but only has a 10amp fuse. No need for a new halogen heater right now since it's warming up so I'm not worried and I'll see if the shop takes it back.

Ah, yes, you bad. You would need a 13amp extension as a minimum, but again ideally the heater should be direct to the wall socket. You can cause the extension to overheat. Never leave that on unattended!!

halogen bulbs and halogen heaters

I can't blame you as it's free!! But again, you could well be overloading extensions and possibly circuits. Lets say 3x heaters, each running at 10amps, the wall sockets can only take a total of 32 amps, but you're already at 30amps. Add a fridge, TV, Router and you probably near the limit on those alone...

Rambling on is fine by me, if I do have any power issues it's best I solve them as nothing says I can't have more than one issue going on that contributes to my issue.

At least it makes the time tick by;). Yep, solving is better than the consequences!!

Your heaters, could be 'hitting' your other devices too, as they click in and out when they're at temp...

So far then kettles probably going back, and I will grab a new extension lead and let the landlord take care of the fittings. No harm in taking care of these things.

Sounds like a plan!!

would a UPS solve that issue?

Yes, a decent one would. It can cope with the 'dirty' bit and put out a nice smooth voltage - but don't start plugging anything halogen in to it. The cost would be a factor too. A small(ish) one would suffice for a router, laptop, PC, stuff like that.

I've seen some products around that claim to filter REIN from plug sockets too

Claims and real world are 2 completely different things. Just look at Plusnet's routers lol!!

I'd rather the source of any problems are dealt with but if it's something not in their control I'd consider giving these things a go. Thoughts?

Messing with anything electickery related can be very dangerous - you can't see it, you can't smell it, but boy you'll know when you mess with it!!

DIYers can do so much, but stuff beyond you should be left to others.

With things switched off and unplugged, no risk.

Things you think are off, well, you'd soon find out!

[#13]

Oh yeah I totally get ya, I would never touch anything someone else should be sorting out. Not an eletrician and I don't need things to start smoking. I'm thinking of this kind of thing that operate on my side of things rather than where an electrician should be instead.

Only had one halogen heater to begin with and none now so I'm sure I'm OK with things drawing too much power for now. I'll watch that for the future though if I ever need one again and keep it low power and with an independent wall socket. The one I had was 1200w with all three lamps switched on. Oops lol.

[#14]

I guess it might be alright, though could also be 'snake oil', I wouldn't know

Although I could have sorted mine out myself, due to costs I had my elec' networks sort it for me. I do keep an eye on it once in a while. One of the easiest things to do is use and incandescent bulb (old school standard filament bulb) and see if it flickers or goes brighter or darker - if it does, it is a crude way of seeing your mains voltage fluctuating

It's easy to see a 6 gang extension lead, and use all 6 - for heaters, lights etc etc etc. The fuse in the lead will pop first, though an RCD would be quicker.

[#15]

Yeah, seems like it could be snake oil unless there is a definite issue, often audio people buy into this sort of thing. Something for later maybe if it comes down to REIN issues.

How about something like this? It seems like it could be an easy and cheap test to see if everything is all right with the mains voltage as remote a chance it seems. Voltage display on LCD.

Kettle definitely needs to go back now, same on a socket I never used before.